It looked pretty delicate. Instead of using your #5, have you considered a #23 or a #19 and using the back side of the blade for chopping? As tough as the #5 is, seems that all that work on a woody plant would take it's toll pretty quick.

Pap

I do think about it. But I prefer the size of the #5-4. It's so much more compact. Sometimes I carry the knife/sheath in my jeans front pocket, which wouldn't be practical with the #19 or #23. Especially considering everything else I carry in that pocket at the same time.

The #8 is a possibility. It's compact enough. But the thing about the #8 is that I like to choke up on a blade, sometimes way up, and that poses a risk to my hand from the top edge. For instance, carving (I mean bushcraft carving, of course) would be dicey with a top edge on the blade.

The other thing is that I usually have to grab a branch or vine with one hand, pull it down and taut, and then cut it with the other hand. But even when pulled taut it can be too 'bouncy' to chop. Usually I have to whittle or carve it.

You're right about it taking a toll, but I touch up the blade with a fine stone and/or a leather strop (I love that O1 carbon steel) at the end of the day. But I'm not all that concerned about razor-edged sharpness, anyway. It's great for skinning and any other fine and delicate work, but an edge used for rough work doesn't need to be that thin. It can even lead to rolling and chipping. Some of the bushcraft guys like a fine edge for making fuzz sticks and whatnot, but I've never needed to do that while working. However, I do think that the thinner blade stock, 3/16" vs. 1/4", is an advantage.

Hmmm, rather a long post, eh? You asked me what time it was and I built you a watch.

Good answer.

Pap