#172748 - 07/04/18 08:49 AM
Re: I want to use my knife but it has to be sharp
[Re: tunefink]
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Knife Enthusiast
Registered: 02/04/08
Posts: 2841
Loc: Georgia
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Mitchell, Went to both sites....very nice!!! I don't sharpen my Randalls....as said " A man needs to know his limitations" I'm with you....the Wicked Edge does appear to be easier...looks like I'll be having to save up for one of those....some of the models can get pricy!!! :-)Rocky
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Rocky Whitaker RKCC#25
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#172755 - 07/04/18 09:48 AM
Re: I want to use my knife but it has to be sharp
[Re: tunefink]
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Knife Enthusiast
Registered: 09/14/05
Posts: 13025
Loc: Central Florida
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I have used my "EZE-Lap" (Diamond) sharpener many times in the field. "In the field" is the key note! I am of firm belief that diamond steels & diamond stones, etc. seriously "shorten" a knife's lifespan! Honing oil and large sharpening stones, in various textures (from more coarse to finer) is the best way to sharpen knives! I use a large Norton tri-honing system, the same as the Randall shop. I am good at it and wind up sharpening many club members knives at my hunting camp. When I ran the boats, I sharpened all of our filet knives, while my mates did all the "blood work"! We used a lot of different types of knives for those tasks. Forschner "re-grinds", along with Dexter kitchen knives were the vast majority used when we had a lot of fish to clean. The last paragraph was geared much more towards saltwater fish than freshwater. I skin freshwater panfish and bass, etc. with an electric knife. Afterwards I de-head and remove the ribs with a Randall Model #10-5". If you are not proficient with sharpening stones, the very best I have found (for ease of use and less blade loss) is a "Spyderco" triangle sharpening system. Consisting of white and grey ceramic sticks, triangular-shaped, this system allows you to sharpen all types of knives, including serrated edges at a variety of angles with perfect results! A phenolic block serves as the base for inserting the sticks. It also works for laying one of the sticks, flat on it's base and sharpening in a more traditional manner. The whole outfit is under a hundred bucks and travels well, being minimal at space-taking. I have toyed with the idea of carrying sharpening equipment to my trade shows for sale on my tables and may still..."BUT"...folks want me to teach them how to sharpen knives and, as several forum members here can attest,I just don't have the time!! One more quick word about diamond sharpeners. They do a really quick job of sharpening. This is true..."BUT"...(Ok: That's enough "buts" for one post)...they really don't "sharpen" in the true sense of the word. They "remove blade steel"! I don't mean in a tiny, small fashion...I mean a lot of blade steel! This reduces your overall size of your blade. A sharpening "stone" sharpens your knife, more by "re-shaping" your edge, salvaging more of your blade. Of course: This is just my opinion and observation but it comes from over 50 years of hunting and fishing experience...for what it's worth. Stay sharp, Capt. Chris
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#172758 - 07/04/18 10:03 AM
Re: I want to use my knife but it has to be sharp
[Re: Captain Chris Stanaback]
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Knife Enthusiast
Registered: 09/12/15
Posts: 3100
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definitely... absolutely.... does NOT have the time. Especially at shows!
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James Caruso RKCC #CM008 rugermark2jc@gmail.com
"First comes smiles, then lies. Last is gunfire."
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#172768 - 07/04/18 04:20 PM
Re: I want to use my knife but it has to be sharp
[Re: RamKingJC]
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Knife Enthusiast
Registered: 02/04/08
Posts: 2841
Loc: Georgia
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I think it would be like teaching someone to dance...too many moves....grind angles...to darn too much of everything....my dad could sharpen, however it did not wear off on me!! A couple of his I rescued from the Florida house after it was sold. not Randall's....and don't necessarily belong here.... :-)Rocky
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Rocky Whitaker RKCC#25
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#172776 - 07/04/18 05:51 PM
Re: I want to use my knife but it has to be sharp
[Re: Captain Chris Stanaback]
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Knife Enthusiast
Registered: 08/21/09
Posts: 2004
Loc: Southwest Virginia
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Unfortunately Rocky, there doesn't seem to be any genetic direct connection, although the skill/gift will skip generations. Every one of my good male friend's wives bring their kitchen knives to me to sharpen, and I will every now and then have a gathering and announce knife sharpening allowed......keeps more top-shelf in my home than could ever be used. Chicago Cutlery has been one of a few favorites going back 3 generations in my home.....both sides.
Edited by Duke (07/04/18 05:53 PM)
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Duke;RKS#5567 RKCC-CM-087 Southwest VA
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#172783 - 07/04/18 08:44 PM
Re: I want to use my knife but it has to be sharp
[Re: Duke]
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Knife Enthusiast
Registered: 02/04/08
Posts: 2841
Loc: Georgia
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Capt... This is crazy, but he had a Spyderco in his stuff, along with several others....I have it, but I'm not sure its complete...I'll have to dig through some stuff... I will sharpen for liquor....not a bad idea!!
:-)
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Rocky Whitaker RKCC#25
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#172785 - 07/04/18 11:37 PM
Re: I want to use my knife but it has to be sharp
[Re: thevalueman]
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Knife Enthusiast
Registered: 10/14/13
Posts: 833
Loc: Kentucky
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Rocky Please sharpen first, liquor after the knives have put up. Safety first.
Dennis
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RKS #4298 RKCC #CM057
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#172786 - 07/05/18 07:47 AM
Re: I want to use my knife but it has to be sharp
[Re: Captain Chris Stanaback]
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Knife Enthusiast
Registered: 06/30/13
Posts: 51
Loc: Belgium
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I have used my "EZE-Lap" (Diamond) sharpener many times in the field. "In the field" is the key note! I am of firm belief that diamond steels & diamond stones, etc. seriously "shorten" a knife's lifespan! Honing oil and large sharpening stones, in various textures (from more coarse to finer) is the best way to sharpen knives! I use a large Norton tri-honing system, the same as the Randall shop. I am good at it and wind up sharpening many club members knives at my hunting camp. When I ran the boats, I sharpened all of our filet knives, while my mates did all the "blood work"! We used a lot of different types of knives for those tasks. Forschner "re-grinds", along with Dexter kitchen knives were the vast majority used when we had a lot of fish to clean. The last paragraph was geared much more towards saltwater fish than freshwater. I skin freshwater panfish and bass, etc. with an electric knife. Afterwards I de-head and remove the ribs with a Randall Model #10-5". If you are not proficient with sharpening stones, the very best I have found (for ease of use and less blade loss) is a "Spyderco" triangle sharpening system. Consisting of white and grey ceramic sticks, triangular-shaped, this system allows you to sharpen all types of knives, including serrated edges at a variety of angles with perfect results! A phenolic block serves as the base for inserting the sticks. It also works for laying one of the sticks, flat on it's base and sharpening in a more traditional manner. The whole outfit is under a hundred bucks and travels well, being minimal at space-taking. I have toyed with the idea of carrying sharpening equipment to my trade shows for sale on my tables and may still..."BUT"...folks want me to teach them how to sharpen knives and, as several forum members here can attest,I just don't have the time!! One more quick word about diamond sharpeners. They do a really quick job of sharpening. This is true..."BUT"...(Ok: That's enough "buts" for one post)...they really don't "sharpen" in the true sense of the word. They "remove blade steel"! I don't mean in a tiny, small fashion...I mean a lot of blade steel! This reduces your overall size of your blade. A sharpening "stone" sharpens your knife, more by "re-shaping" your edge, salvaging more of your blade. Of course: This is just my opinion and observation but it comes from over 50 years of hunting and fishing experience...for what it's worth. Stay sharp, Capt. Chris
Capt I totally agree with you with the much steel removal with the diamond sharpeners. And also it can quick damage/scratch the blade. This is also the reason (when it is possible) I always buy O1, so I can use my Arkansas water stone. I too scared to damage my Randall. I have tried my stone on some steel as the 154CM or the ATS 34, and I must say it was very hard and long to achieve the edge I wanted. How does the large Norton tri-honing system work on the Randall stainless steel? Is it +/- easy? Is it better than when it is used with water ?
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