The tension is adjustable, Larry, and they leave the shop in maximum safe mode....mine fall open as soon as ball detent is past.

If those bearings you mention are caged in steel, all is well and good. Ball bearing steel will chew any other metal to bits, especially blade steel and titanium. If they are simply milling races into blade and interior of liner or frame, it is a very poor idea.

Again, any of these are adjustable, including Sebenzas, but at loss of lockbar tension against side of blade, and in locking force. The hand in a normal grip will prevent unlocking. Abnormal grips or abnormal force pushing bar to unlocked position, all bets are off, even if left at factory setting.

There are several aspects to tuning one of them, Sebenza, Hinderer, etc. First order of biz is to get your favorite grease down inside and on the detent ball area of the lock. Getting that detent ball to pop free of dimple in blade a major factor in ease. But, if too easy, will not pop free and "fire" as some want. I do not mind a bit of wrist action, and pretty much required anyhow on the largest blade due to inertia.

Next aspect is pivot tension, only circa 6° of screw rotation is the difference between dragging hard, and loosey goosey with blade sideplay.

Last area to adjust, and only last, is lockbar tension. Simply tweak it outboard. On the Hinderer, the stabilizer will need be removed with a 0.05" hex drive (say WIHA). And if that sounds too simple, it is. Because 90% of time, what will happen is overshoot, and lock nowhere close to engaging as deeply as original. Why adjust at all? Because of tremendous drag on side of blade by detent ball and bar, set normally very heavy by anybody who cares about safety. I have an Inkosi which came with so much inboard tension that when screws were removed and friction fit of parts broken, the lockbar exploded the knife into a spontaneously disassembled state, but you betcha that lock was safe. Also, it makes a huge amount of difference in getting the detent ball to pop out of detent.

With it overshot, now what? Only one way to approach. It cannot be bent back to proper tension, which always requires a bit of overshoot, with blade and far side of knife in way. So, now, entire knife must be disassembled (ie, lockside removed), tweaked the other way, and hopefully not right back to where it was the first time. Some of this can be checked simply with lockside, blade and pivot.

It takes some acquaintance and developing a feel, and hats off to the assemblers, who must follow boss guidelines for a safe and strong knife.

As for lefty version, a halfway measure is already out, a scale with drilled liner made to take clip screws on far side, either end. I have no need, and hate extra holes, so....but, that much is out there already.