It actually is randomness, as where I had the 1/4" pivot indexed on back side was strictly dictated by spanner fitting best in a certain orientation, with clip still in the way.

A knife blade stock thicker than 3/16ths"/0.185"/4.7mm is going to be a monster, the jump from the 3.5"/0.165" thick knife to the 4"/0.185" thick blade also jumped weight from 5.7 oz to 7.8 oz.

I would simply prefer a stronger tougher steel such as 5160/80crv2/8760m be used, to not increase already considerable folded size and thickness.

To continue the history, the handmade 3.5" knife introduced 2006, shop made by 2008, the largest blade introduced 2008, still handground and all titanium, the shop made 2010 intro at BLADE with G10 (where I bought my first one via lottery, will post a photo when I dig it up), and the smallest knife introduced between the two.

As for cost cutting, mainly through better machines and programming, his tool replacement way down while production is up, suchlike new equipment means no more buried and wrecked cutters. Rick is a self-taught machinist, no easy task. He went outside his shop for primary grind and heat treat of his blades, strictly to increase repetitive quality over hand ground, while also increasing ability to keep up with demand. They still will do a hand ground, but you are taking one guy of a small crew off a busy schedule, and you WILL pay for that...I never really looked into it, but might still be Rick doing those, and a man has to feed his original STG44 and Browning General Purpose Machinegun, you know?

Personally, I like the outfit because although he has sold vast numbers of knives to elite military members, he does not cater to that, nor cater to snob/elitism at all in advertising, nor to gory imagining armchair commandos. No "Deathwind Skull Cleaver II", nor "Tools For The PROFFESIONAL Operator". Any hype has always been dealers, along with hyped prices. His motto is simply Dependable Custom Knives. Where others embellish with gargoyles, skulls, etc, Rick embellishes with dog paw prints, interlocked turning gears, and dinosaur skin texture.

His emphasis is on precision workmanship, and here is a video concentrating mainly on the TWO people fitting blades, with one blanked out for privacy request. Most of the video fitting up ONE knife, if that is what it takes.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C0I482ZeqTw

This second video, and actually part 1 of the above series, is a tour of shop as various parts made. Again, they batch produce, so not everything being made all at one time, a very small outfit. Be warned of terrible audio, no award winning film making here.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c1wryqsWjrc

I was amused by the latter (Pt1) video, as Rick was showing off his QC equipment, and saying blades could "be checked, every however many blades" sampling, while later, the actual machinist flatly stated (since production pace obviously allowed) that he checked "every one of them". Which means a worker who is exceeding QC measures, simply because he can. Note, also, earlier in the video, a machine is making glorified washers named "lock bar stabilizers" of Rick's invention, and the obviously in-use QC checking gauges next to the batch of such simple little parts.

As an aside, one can find all manner of self-proclaimed "expert" rants, including regarding Hinderer products. Liner and frame locks are a tricky balancing act, and frankly a terrible idea for a "lock" which actually works more as a sear and trigger opened or closed. Folk complain detent not strong enough to "fire" the unsprung blade opening as if a catapult trigger, or blade can open when shaken. Or even slight off-center tips. All of these issues are secondary to safe and proper amount of LOCK tension and engagement. When lock tension increased, so is opening and closing drag of detent on blade, depth of engagement and sticking or premature wear. Meaning folk then loosen the pivot for the other crowd who wants to flip the knife with a fingernail. It is impossible to please them all. So, if you want ultimate centered, there is an adjustment proceedure widely posted. It is supposed to POSSIBLY be able to shake open and which movement cannot be duplicated in pocket or IWB. If you want it to "fire", and never in a million years shake open, then disassemble and increase lock tension and enjoy the excess wear, and if you want it to flick, do the opposite and relieve tension, and if it pops closed on fingers during use, it is all on you.

Back to the XM series knife itself, it is getting old in the now ever changing knife world. Rick and crew have introduced a steel insert to lock bar end, primarily to deal with warranty claims from those who insist on batoning a knife design which works only via direct spring pressure of spring on blade to hold open, and which is going to bounce and batter the softer titanium every time with blows to spine, despite Rick's design being nearly unbreakable with any force applied any other direction. Personally, I hate the added complexity due to knife beaters, but....when you batch produce for a series, alot a certain number for warranty, and you get a surge from knife beaters or pathological flickers who NEVER stop flicking, it can really throw a wrench in the gears.
And as for design getting old, Rick is amazed it still in production, and that is due to demand. He has continued to crank out new designs, better ergonomics, most designs being geared to his larger pool of buyers mainly of only indoor adventurers and wanting more pocketable knives. And yet, it is still his XM slowly gaining classic status and still the one selling out first at dealers. And Spanto. And green or black or tan. And I fully admit partial fault in that.