I cannot figure any way to "post-in-photos" the process..."BUT"...I can try and explain it. Here goes:
When I was runnin' the boats, I would "task myself" with keeping the knives sharp. Old Forschner re-grinds, mostly, they required a very "very" low angle to sharpen. Of course, I cared not what scratches may occur on those blades..."&" that low angle meant a lot more trips to the steel to re-sharpen.
RMK's? A totally different story. The bevel is quite "thick", requiring the maintaining of a 16-20 degree angle. Be it steel-or-stone-or ceramic sharpening device, the "angle" is the 1st key in sharpening these RMKs we love so much.
NO WRIST movement when sharpening! Steady, continual and in the same motion wins the day. Consider your arm, wrist and hand an extension of the knives, keeping them as one. The steeper the angle (20 degrees for example) the less re-sharpening will be required. This comes at a price in that the actual "cuts"-n-"slices", i.e. are not as "surgical". When filleting fish, etc. a lesser degree of angle will produce the results you are looking for.
When we have a "doe" day or "youth" day at the hunting camp, a good many whitetails need processing. The angle is not as critical but still needs to be maintained. Speaking of "maintaining", you must maintain your sharpening devices as well.
I use vinegar (white) and hot soap,water and a stiff brush to clean the longitudinal lines on my steel. My big "shop stones" (Nordic, tri hone) requires less but it is wise to wipe and re-oil them every so often. Ceramics: Hot soap and water as well.
The "chefs" on TV whip those blades quickly on their steels and make it look effortless. Again, low angle sharpening lends itself to this method of sharpening. "NOT"...for RMK's!
Hope this helps,
Capt. Chris
PS: This upcoming hunting season I'll try and get someone to photograph some of this procedure. I will pin this topic so we can all add, subtract or amend it as time goes on and allows...CCS