Hey guys, my name is Ben. Ive been supplying wood to knife makers since I was 14, and I am now 21. I recently sold some wood to the user Sphinx on this forum to have a piece made, and I wanted to say hello.

I wanted to know what size blocks you guys like your woods cut to. I bring in a lot of great stuff, including gidgee, Tasmanian blackwood, and my main wood Amboyna Burl.

Also, I am a chemist and have been working with K&G for years, so if you have any questions about wood, stabilizing, stabilized wood or anything else, please feel free to ask me!

Please let me know what sizes you guys like for having Randall pieces made

And to any mods, if I am supposed to purchase membership before posting like this just let me know where to find that and I will buy it, gotta support the forum.

Amboyna Burl





Tasmanian Blackwood



Ipe Burl



Red Mallee burl

Can you get stabalized Osage Orange?

Pap

Ben,
In answer to your questions:
* If you are "strictly" posting here to provide facts & photos of handle material, etc. then no "fees" are due.
* If you wish to "sell" here, "WITHOUT" promoting your website (no "cross-foruming" or website postings) you can pay an annual fee or a fee, per sale.
* If you wish to create a "banner ad" (Similar to mine or the RKCC "club" banner ad) you can pay a higher annual fee and post "all" of your business information, within your banner ad..."as well as"...in your individual listings.
Also: This RMK "Main" forum is mostly intended for information on Randall Made Knives. Though we, most assuredly get side-tracked, and threads get hi-jacked, we try and keep this sub-forum to Randall knives themselves.
Your posting would be better suited in the "picture gallery" (if RMKs are related) or the "Buy-Sell-Trade" sub-forum. If handle material of other sizing and usage is being posted or discussed, we have a variety of other sub-forums to do so.
You can contact RickT to advise you as to costs, etc. of all-of-the-above..
Hope this helps, Capt. Chris

Thanks, Should I find an email for RickT or message him through the forum?

Yes you certainly can. Osage exists in a bit of a grey area, since it really doesnt NEED stabilizing. In general stabilizing is used with woods that are either soft/ light/ unstable to moisture, as well as woods that are very figured with either curl or burl. These features of wood figure introduce lots of additional stress points in wood and make them more susceptible to cracking.

In general, most osage is pretty unfigured, dense and stable so its not really a needed process most of the time

You can email me @ CAPTSTANABACK@aol.com & I'll get the proper contact info to you.
Capt. Chris

Good to see you here Ben!

Here are the demensions that the shop requires.
Hope this helps!

Wood sizing depends on which knife the wood is going on. RMK has a sheet they send to dealers now-and-again. If this one from 2008 isn't most recent, it will at least give you an idea.

http://www.knifetalkforums.com/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=131092#Post131092

(EDIT: nevermind, I see Bill already beat me to the punch)

I have two tubs of wood blocks I've been S-L-O-W-L-Y drying (multiple years), one is Osage Orange and the other is Honey Locust. Osage Orange came down in moisture much faster than Honey Locust. Also, Osage Orange has never picked up any mold. Honey Locust can be rather annoying about that.

I asked Randall about a half year ago about the required wood sizes, and I got this list from 2014. The sizes are the same as the one from 2008. The only difference between the two is the part about Ivory and the adding of the 5" Gambler.