I hear ya,....makes no sense to me either, but I guess you can figure out how to arrive at a Model 25 without thumb notches????

I guess I've always known the answer was no, (with no real explanation given)_....which is why I've had no qualms about making changes in a blade to better meet my preferences.

I actually owned FOUR model 25's at one time, all with premium grained dark wonder stag (I sought them out years ago),....but never used mine and sold them off more than a year or maybe 2 years ago.

I prefer a 4" to 4-1/2" blade to carry regularly, and the model 25 on the long side of that, with a wider blade. My recent 1-7 Kit knife doesn't fit that size preference, but it's been growing on me for it's other qualities.

Thanks for all your thoughts on this subject guys. Not what I'd hoped for but not your fault either. I will survive just the same.

cheers,
Joe T

PS......there is a bit of work I plan to do this spring on my thinner blade model 26. You can do a lot with a flexible shaft machine, a fine and extra fine grit stone 1 inch diameter cutoff discs, a fine grit rubber wheel, and a 2" muslin polishing wheel. An example of what I mean below. (was just the 2nd knife I tried)

This is the smallest knife that I've added vine-work jimping along the spine. (a tiny Buck 55 locking folder that I also removed the false edge to even the spine for a cleaner look)

I found basic shaping instruction on the net, and got to work. Other than scratching off evenly spaced starting points with a set of dividing calipers, all work was cut freehand (slowly) using a 2.5X magnifying headband.



Pretty small to work,...yes! Toughest on the eyes though, for the 2+ hours required. I did this one a few years ago. It always resides in a leather snapped pouch on my belt every day. Holds my ID, credit cards,some emergency cash, and this handy little bugger.