I indicated the approximate prices in the nearby market

It is often stabilized and colored, the result is a cool,
but price ~20-25

Roselli does not stabilize, he just boils in linen or Danish oil, this is enough for long years of service.

I really like C9!

I experimented a little with sharpening - took the old stone Franz Swaty (on ebay ~ $10).
A good result if use soapy water.

On some sites it is indicated that the hardness of steel is UHC = 66-68 HRc.
I have other results - I scraped the tip of my emerson and vice versa.
Emerson scratches Roselli as a diamond cutter scratches the glass.
Emerson have 57-59 HRc, that is, hardness UHC = 53-55 HRc.
But this is on my piece. It is necessary to try on other pieces.

A little more on the birchbark sheaths, shoes, packs, purses, etc....
https://nordiskaknivar.wordpress.com/201...y-eero-kovanen/

https://nordiskaknivar.wordpress.com/2014/09/02/tuohi-birch-bark-in-finnish-culture-by-eero-kovanen/

But as for blade quality, still would put a $9 Lauri puukko blade against 90% of domestic USA knives (or more likely, imports marked US), and the Lauri would win....cleaner steel, better heat treat, better blade geometry. It is the blade used on vast majority of import puukko in the US, near every mass produced shop in Finland uses them. Ditto a Mora, just try any US blade against what a Mora can take and still cut. And all are very plain steel simple knives.

Yeah, but there is 1 point, on heavily abrasive materials - felt,
dirty skin of a wild boar, rubber contaminated with dust and sand,
modern steel works better: 154CM/ATS34, CPM S30V and other CPM,
Bohler microclean powder steels, german Lohman PGK steel,
russian/ukrainian DI90 and DI90MP, CTS steels.
They hold the cutting edge better.
Merit of Scandinavians, in general, only a good geometry of blades
The Bark River went the right way - CPM 3V and Elmax
on knives with Scandinavian blade type, ie model "bushcrafter"
and "scandi"


And thanks for the links, as always very interesting

they also chip and break easier except on pure straight cutting chores....those are all essentially paper and metal shearing blade steels and work great on predictable materials....past that, all bets are off....hit some bone by accident with that great wondersteel skinner and a chunk is gone out of edge....hit a staple or nail in that dirty rubber, and ditto....