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#161840 - 06/28/17 04:38 PM Roselli knives
desert.snake Offline
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In the Lofty theme, I mentioned Roselli.
I have not got a leuku yet (on road), but my old friend made me a present - R100 Hunter.
4 years ago I gave him a gift - a hunting knife from Elmax.
He lives in another city and finally decided to visit me.

I have no photos left, now I see the most similar in size and shape of the blade - this is




So, a friend gave me a knife, I was very happy.
A little reading the information on the forums, I saw 1 weak spot,
this is a bad sheath.
They are not impregnated, they have thin skin, and the liner of white plastic is open on one side.
The knife itself has the shape of a cone, if you strongly push it into the sheath, then it opens the liner and cuts the sheath, possibly with the master's leg))

I have an old beech armrest. Very dry and fairly hard.
I decided to make a counter-insert.
Tools, except for knives and pliers I do not have now.
Began to do. In the process I used 3 knives.
The least benefit was from the skinner. He enters the tree well,
but it jams. Stanley is good for small work (although I would prefer a chisel).

In the end, when I almost finished - my insert was shattered due to a wooden nail that I had not noticed.
But still decided to try with what is.
The hardest part was pushing it all inside.
Already later, when I had almost finished everything, I realized that the wooden insert had to be made thinner by 2 times and already 2 times (or three times).

While working, does not look very presentable, but now the scabbard and my legs are protected from cuts.

An interesting remark - on the skinner, steel 52100 In the place where the beech cut, the cutting edge turned to the side.
The Stanley knife was deprived of the tip and the entire cutting edge was covered with small chips.
On Roselli, when you look at the glare of light, a pair of brilliant tracks appeared on the cutting edge, but the test on a paper check of dull spots did not show.
Roselli is good for cutting wood,
but some people may tell the handle is too flat.
Therefore, if someone wants to Roselli, it is better to touch hands in advance, so that later there would be no disappointment smile




























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#161887 - 06/29/17 06:15 AM Re: Roselli knives [Re: desert.snake]
desert.snake Offline
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I could catch these 2 places, which seemed to be blunt, but they have no influence.
I think for the simplest steel, this is a good result.






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#162012 - 07/02/17 09:26 PM Re: Roselli knives [Re: desert.snake]
Lofty Offline
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Registered: 02/06/16
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The plain fact is that many knives from Scandinavia and Finland outperform 90% of the knives in the US market. And no supersteels (although this outfit has the super high carbon glass hard blades), but mainly iron, carbon, chromium, moly, and silicon.....simply good rather plain steels with grinds meant to cut for most any need.
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#162026 - 07/03/17 12:59 PM Re: Roselli knives [Re: Lofty]
desert.snake Offline
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True, but you should pay attention only to old knives - 40-50-60's and early.
The build quality was better then now, and have real forged knife.
Or contact the masters, as you with Pasi, and another custom masters.
The vast majority of Scandinavian industrial knives today have various disadvantages,
even Mora, if compared with its old production.

Roselli could not resist even a small walk.
The knife is good - the sheath bad.
I went into the bus, drove a little, the bus stopped abruptly at the moment when I got up from the seat, I was blown forward by inertia. The knife touched the chair in the aisle and came off. Well, that did not hurt anyone smile

I looked - the skin except that it was impregnated with nothing, it breaks easily, like a wet paper.
I only met this kind on my old grandfather's harness when I accidentally found her in a barn. She lay there for about 50-60 years and in her arms she broke easily.

Now, in any case, need to make a new scabbard.


White traces - I rubbed the wax "renaissance".
But if the skin is initially bad, then nothing will help.
Maybe it was necessary to soak in the wax, that is,
lower the sheath into a liquid wax and stand for several days?
But still I'm not sure





There is one interesting idea.
One master decided to restore the old Scandinavian knives
with a bad handle and bad / no sheath in an original way.
There are old Russian shoes - lapty (bast shoes).
From the word "lapa" - foot.






Here are some examples of work,
inside wooden liner
























Edited by desert.snake (07/04/17 12:28 AM)
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#162072 - 07/04/17 12:34 AM Re: Roselli knives [Re: desert.snake]
desert.snake Offline
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#162073 - 07/04/17 12:35 AM Re: Roselli knives [Re: desert.snake]
desert.snake Offline
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Registered: 09/25/13
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#162106 - 07/04/17 06:31 PM Re: Roselli knives [Re: desert.snake]
desert.snake Offline
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Today by mail I received another model Carpenter HRC 66-68
with UHC (ultra high carbon) steel.
I do not know for sure, but I guess it's AISI M1017 or something similar.

In fact, here the steel is softer than stated.
My japan aquatic synthetic stone for 600 or 800 grit (I forgot the exact number)
is very easy to eat stone, I think, somewhere around HRC 59-61.

I took it in the secondary market for $30,
he was very blunt, made it sharp in 30 minutes,
While carrying him from the bath to the room (it's 10 steps),
he began to become covered with rust grin

The most interesting is the sheath, here they are made
of better quality leather, it is durable and does not absorb water.
Apparently the knives with steel UHC are more quality sheath.

The knife itself has more classical Finnish forms.
Fungus is not so pronounced.
In the hand lies very comfortable in any position.
























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#162116 - 07/04/17 08:29 PM Re: Roselli knives [Re: desert.snake]
maxpastor Offline
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Registered: 07/31/14
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Loc: South West
I like that blade design, what is the handle made of?
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#162131 - 07/04/17 11:22 PM Re: Roselli knives [Re: maxpastor]
Holzinger258 Offline
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Loc: The Desert Southwest
Birch?
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#162144 - 07/05/17 10:59 AM Re: Roselli knives [Re: Holzinger258]
desert.snake Offline
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Registered: 09/25/13
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Yeah, Carelian Birch (Betula pendula Roth var. carelica (Mercklin), Betula pendula f 1.0 carelica, Betula verrucósa)

They differ in grades depending on the quality

as example

extra class (~ $13-20 for 1 pc)







1 class (~ $7-11 for 1 pc)







2 class (~ $3-5 for 1 pc)







3 class (~ $1-2 for 1 pc)




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#162147 - 07/05/17 11:10 AM Re: Roselli knives [Re: desert.snake]
desert.snake Offline
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I indicated the approximate prices in the nearby market smile

It is often stabilized and colored, the result is a cool,
but price ~20-25

Roselli does not stabilize, he just boils in linen or Danish oil, this is enough for long years of service.































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#162154 - 07/05/17 01:49 PM Re: Roselli knives [Re: desert.snake]
Robert Frey Offline
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Registered: 06/07/11
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Loc: Wausau, WI USA
I really like C9!
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#162182 - 07/06/17 04:11 AM Re: Roselli knives [Re: Robert Frey]
desert.snake Offline
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Registered: 09/25/13
Posts: 1107
Loc: the other side of the earth
I experimented a little with sharpening - took the old stone Franz Swaty (on ebay ~ $10).
A good result if use soapy water.

On some sites it is indicated that the hardness of steel is UHC = 66-68 HRc.
I have other results - I scraped the tip of my emerson and vice versa.
Emerson scratches Roselli as a diamond cutter scratches the glass.
Emerson have 57-59 HRc, that is, hardness UHC = 53-55 HRc.
But this is on my piece. It is necessary to try on other pieces.











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#162193 - 07/06/17 11:05 AM Re: Roselli knives [Re: desert.snake]
Lofty Offline
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Registered: 02/06/16
Posts: 656
A little more on the birchbark sheaths, shoes, packs, purses, etc....
https://nordiskaknivar.wordpress.com/201...y-eero-kovanen/

https://nordiskaknivar.wordpress.com/2014/09/02/tuohi-birch-bark-in-finnish-culture-by-eero-kovanen/

But as for blade quality, still would put a $9 Lauri puukko blade against 90% of domestic USA knives (or more likely, imports marked US), and the Lauri would win....cleaner steel, better heat treat, better blade geometry. It is the blade used on vast majority of import puukko in the US, near every mass produced shop in Finland uses them. Ditto a Mora, just try any US blade against what a Mora can take and still cut. And all are very plain steel simple knives.
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#162201 - 07/06/17 02:01 PM Re: Roselli knives [Re: Lofty]
desert.snake Offline
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Registered: 09/25/13
Posts: 1107
Loc: the other side of the earth
Yeah, but there is 1 point, on heavily abrasive materials - felt,
dirty skin of a wild boar, rubber contaminated with dust and sand,
modern steel works better: 154CM/ATS34, CPM S30V and other CPM,
Bohler microclean powder steels, german Lohman PGK steel,
russian/ukrainian DI90 and DI90MP, CTS steels.
They hold the cutting edge better.
Merit of Scandinavians, in general, only a good geometry of blades smile
The Bark River went the right way - CPM 3V and Elmax
on knives with Scandinavian blade type, ie model "bushcrafter"
and "scandi" smile


And thanks for the links, as always very interesting smile
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#162289 - 07/08/17 07:31 PM Re: Roselli knives [Re: desert.snake]
Lofty Offline
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Registered: 02/06/16
Posts: 656
they also chip and break easier except on pure straight cutting chores....those are all essentially paper and metal shearing blade steels and work great on predictable materials....past that, all bets are off....hit some bone by accident with that great wondersteel skinner and a chunk is gone out of edge....hit a staple or nail in that dirty rubber, and ditto....
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