So, how does parkerizing hold up?

Hi all -
I wanted to share the results of a little test I conducted this afternoon. It is by no means conducted to the same level as the tests that the guy at the Blade conducts, but I was only trying to see how the parkerized finish would hold up to some abuse.

That said, the test was designed more or less mimic normal activites that a military knife might see. Throughout my time in the in the military it seems that most uses my knives saw was cutting MRE packages, boxes of some sort, plastics, rope/cord, and on occassion some wood for a fire.

I'll keep this short and to the point.

The details:
Knife - Model 14, parkerized finish.
Test(s):
-1: Stabbed, slashed, chopped a 5 gallon bucket with 300+ cuts.
-2: Used 200+ cuts to chop a 1X4 piece of Pine in half.
-3: Made 100+ cuts to several heavy carboard boxes.
-4: Drew the knife from the sheath 200+ times.

Outcome: The finish held up GREAT! There were no spots were the finish was worn through to the metal from the tests. It looked as though all the cutting only polished up certain areas of the finish.

Following the tests and some pics, I cleaned the knife up, resharpened it, and then snapped some more pics.

- Rob

Post test pic:


Cleaned up:


Close up logo side:


Close up non-logo side:

Wow! that came out great. I would like to see Randall offer a coating.

Rob,
That's great.
Can you tell us, briefly, how Parkerizing is done?
It seems to hold up pretty darn well!
Thanks,
Tony

Tony,

If you go to "Wikipedia" and type in "Parkerizing", there is a technical description on how its done. I've been away from it for about fifteen years, so the process has probably changed and upgraded.

I believe the item (gun{stripped}, knife, etc.)was dipped into the tanks filled with parkerizing solution (still available from Brownells in Iowa).

Fifteen years ago, the drawback to parkerizing was that the solution was good for only one project. A gunsmith couldn't keep the solution for a couple of days or more as he could with regular hot blueing solution.

From 1975 until 1999, we supplied Randalls to men of the 82nd ABN DIV, the 5th & 7th SFG(A) here at Fort Bragg. We, upon request, would take a Randall #1, #14, #15, or #18 to the cabinet and bead-blast it, using aluminum-oxide glass beads under air pressure. Glass bead blasting provides a smoother (less coarse)finish than sand blasting. Then we'd fire up the tanks, and dip only the blade in the hot blueing solution.

Basically, Parkerizing & "BB&B" ("Bead Blast & (hot) Blue") provided the item with two advantages. 1) Minimize light reflection to the "bad guys" 2) Allowed oil to adhere & remain longer to coated metal surfaces.

New processes including epoxy paints and other "mixes" may have eclipsed the parkerizing process, I don't know.
It was very popular in the 20th Century beginning in WWII and beyond. Look at M1 Garands, M1 Carbines, M14's, 1911-A1 pistols, M-3 trench knives, etc.

Other gunsmiths might correct my foggy mind, I hope.

Check out Rick's thread on the Model 18 with new "coat".

Thanks Buck!
Wikipedia is very helpful ...
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parkerizing
It's interesting that Glock is still using it ...
Glock Ges.m.b.H., an Austrian firearms manufacturer, uses a black Parkerizing process as a topcoat to a Tenifer process
to protect the slides of the pistols they manufacture. After applying the Tenifer process, a black Parkerized finish is applied
and the slide is protected even if the Parkerized finish were to wear off. Used this way, Parkerizing is thus becoming a protective
and decorative finishing technique that is used over other underlying improved techniques of metal protection.
Your additional info is much appreciated.
Tony

Rob, I am really impressed with the outcome of this knife. I wonder what the market would be for the warfighter. If I was over there - I would want one. Is this something you think an aftermarket house might perform? Any idea on cost??

Bill

Thanks for the resposnses guys!

Yes, the parkerizing finishes wears pretty good and is still in use with todays gun makers and custum builders. I have tried several different finishes on carry guns to include, hot bluing, parkerizing, IonBond's DLC, Wilson Combat's Armor Tuff, Norrell's Moly Resin...all have some advantages and disadvantages.

As far as the parkerizing process, fairly simply once you take the plunge...bead blast and dip in the park solution. You have to take into consideration the edge on the knife after you blast it, so really the process is blast, sharpen, degrease, park, oil, and possably sharpen again.

Buck, I have seen some of the knives your shop offered to guys around Bragg and that is one reason I chose to do a parkerized finsih on these knives. The parkerizing solution I am using can be reused with no problems as long as it is cleaned of "floaties" and stored properly, over time it can loose it's strength, but I have yet to see that.

As far as if I am going ot offer this an option to guys wanting thier Randalls subdued, yes, I am. Not certain on cost, and other details yet.

Thanks again,
Rob

Rob, I think you really have a winner there - Please let me (us) know if you plan to do this in volume.

BTW - I would hate to be the bucket! yikes!!

Here the only two parkerized knives, out from the Shop.

Why did they only do two?

Just a test...maybe ?

Guido -
Very neat knives!

For all who have been following this thread, I have a Series of knives that is based on the parkerized platform that I will be announcing here at the Forums shortly, watch for the details!

- Rob

Rob,

That's great about the Parkerizing solution being reused.

Fifteen years ago or more, it was a "one-shot" bath (dip) and then down the drain.

For many of our customers, we simply (glass) bead blasted the entire knife, which saved time on masking the knife.

The result looked very much like your photos on the handle and hilt, The blade was the same texture but gray color. Of course, the knife had to be resharpened.

I'm very proud that I sold a Model 14 to a MSG in the 7th SFG(A) about 5 years ago who was awarded the Silver Star for action in Iraq. He told me it got down to "hand to hand". In his hand was the model 14.

BTW, is that bucket the one I lent to you after the 2010 Blade Show? It was a great footstool.

Maybe it wasn't. Can't remember.

IMHO—Parkerizing is the way to go on a true combat knife. The “spray & bake” finishes work well on firearms….specifically to prevent corrosion and glare, but other than continual holster wear…firearms just won’t be subjected to the kind of regular hard use that a knife will in the field. If you were to subject a “spray & bake” coated knife to the same tests Rob did with his parkerized knife…..I believe you’d see a significant difference in durability. If “spray & bake” is preferred, I would definitely want the base metal sand blasted and parkerized prior to application…..Wilson Combat does this prior to applying their Armor Tuff finish.