Oil time

It’s that time of the year when I apply mineral oil to my ivory handled Randall’s. Decided to take a few pictures and share on the forum since I haven’t posted in awhile. Hope you all enjoy them

Dan Snyder
RKCC #cm-155

Couldn’t fit all the pictures in one post, so here’s the second group.


Dan Snyder
RKCC CM-155

Nice. I really like that model 1 in the first pic!

I use to do that but they still cracked. I finally gave mine away, not really but what I got for them was way low. I still have a few.

Dan,

I also do the mineral oil this time of year; I do 10-12 knives per week. Wrap in terry towels soaked in mineral oil. Clean the knives and back in the displays.

I also do distilled water in humidity pots each week in every display throughout the year.

Tom Flynn

Those all look great. I want to get a knfe with FWI but am worried about "care and feeding" so I keep waiting. Y'all are not helping me with my issues though!!
Thanks for posting
Walker

FWI is not nearly as prone to cracking. Duke McCaa has his FWI stabilized which makes it even less likely.

Great collection Dan!!!
(jim from San Diego)

are those mammoth? Beautiful!!!

Yes Crosscut Mammoth Tusk.

Tom Flynn

Thanks for all the kind words. I’m fortunate to live in SF Bay Area in CA, so humidity is not a problem. I wrap the handles with Saran wrap after oiling. So far the ones with cracks haven’t gotten longer or wider.

Dan Snyder
RKCC CM-155

Oiling versus waxing?

While ivory is somewhat porous, given that it has a grain structure and has water content that varies depending on conditions, I suspect that it does not absorb any oil or other things used to keep it from cracking.

Oil molecules might be too large to absorb into it, but might coat the surface and seal pores insofar as it is not completely wiped off.

The same effect could be achieved by coating it with Ren Wax or carnauba wax, and polishing to leave a very thin coat.

I think everybody here appreciates that ivory is similar to wood in that it can absorb and lose water content depending variations in humidity and temperature and on how dense it is and the exposure of the grain.

And also that the inherent tension in the grain structure can lead to the releasing of that tension depending on how it is cut and shaped. Relatively "green" ivory would be more likely to crack than aged ivory. But even a very old uncut tusk might result in pieces that crack once they are cut and shaped and exposed to new humidity and temperature conditions. And also because stresses that were constrained and stable in the uncut tusk are freed up to start relaxing.

Just thinking out loud about it, and considering that I don't have ivory on any knives made after the mid-1800's. And for some reason I get away with storing them under normal conditions without any cracks happening.

Just lucky I guess.

Larry